Atkinsons conquer Britains biggest mountain!
The day started the night before as we packed our gear and discussed our plan. Having climbed the largest English and Welsh mountains this one had always been a bit of a boyhood dream. We rose early though some faffing did ensue despite all that trying to be ready the night before. Next the drive, a 2hr+ epic, winding, single track, with regular stops for sheep or other wild animals (mountain goat, deer, etc).
Upon reach the start Matthew and Imogen shouldered the packs and we sun creamed up.
Then a final hitch, or should that be hitcher, Matthew discovered something on his arm; a tick. For further details I’ll write elsewhere. Needless to say there was a slight delay before starting our assent.
First my hearty thanks to both Matthew and Imogen for agreeing to carry the not unsubstantial bags. We needed 2L each of water plus survival kit, coats and food. As I’ve struggled with knee issues I went without carrying at all and sporting two walking poles. I didn’t want to become a casualty or end up sat out for the rest of our Scottish holiday!
Stage 1, the climb to the lake, I’d read this was the testing ground. It starts across the river bridge from the centre and then initially slowly climbs upwards at a gentle pace. Ideas that this might be easy can take hold as you seem to be climbing quickly up the valley. However the path starts to head up more determinedly and get rocky and step like. The sun beat down and I had to call for a stop under some young birch trees in the shade to have a first drink and recover.
The path travels up past some water falls and a steep stepped area with a drop into the valley below. But still no lake (the waypoint for stage 2), the climb continued.. pole, step, pole, step, on and on.
We heard water splashing, which felt exciting though it was in fact a water and not the lake we had been seeking. The fall had to us excited about the lake and we talked of the split. Where the ‘mountain trail’ and the ‘other routes’ (i.e. pick axe climbs) diverge.
Our first plan had been to stop at the lake for an early lunch, lighten the packs and have a good break in a known spot. However as it came into view we began war gaming an alternative short stop and snack and to keep our momentum going. Thus it was a short stop to stare at the oddity of a lake up a mountain and admire the now really rather good views.. then we pushed on further with all chance of shade disappearing with the last trees.
The next stage was the endless zig followed by zag. We counted about 12 obvious ones on the map but it seemed like many more sprang up and somehow joined them. Now we no longer even saw sheep who sensibly left the high climb to the mad humans. It was hot, very hot, so we took regular breaks allowing anyone to schedule one. We amused ourselves with trying to decide if we were currently on a it or a zag with high court determination of the facts. At points Matthew went a little ahead preferring a faster pace with longer stops while Imogen and I caught up. This part is pure endurance and hope that it will end and the top will come.
Then we happened upon a first tiny patch of snow! If our legs were not so tired the novelty might have meant snow balls or snowmen.. but we marvelled there was any snow left in the heat and pushed on.
As we rounded the corner a bigger surprise.. a huge snow bank stood in our way with walkers slipping and scrambling up V shaped paths through it.
The views now were intense with mountains all round and far into the distance as Ben Nevis made them look like small play hills. The snow was quite an obstacle, the drift itself was very deep. Walking poles disappeared in a long way but using them like climbing aids seemed the only way to go. I speared the snow and dragged my slipping boots up. I have no idea how Matthew and Imogen did it without such aid but they went up probably faster than me! It was beautiful and almost intoxicatingly fun to be in the snow at high altitude. Somehow it lifted our spirits as we laught our way slipping and sliding still upwards.
The top of Nevis is a sudden riot of colour. Walkers in all different gear, with sun hats, bobble hats, scarves, packs, lunches, cameras. It’s like one big party as folks rock up to take their victory moment at the trig and get a photo. There’s a ruined observatory, an old trig point and the newer one. There was a bit of a breeze but nothing we weren’t a little glad of after the heat of the climb.
Above all else, with my Sherper like kids I’d made the top! We asked a nice lady to take our photo and offered to take her a group shot. After a short wait we climbed up to take our own victory moment. Amazingly we also saw a tiny white topped bird sitting and singing on the observatory roof. It was a glorious day and we’d achieved something hard together. What a great moment.
We had quite a bit of fun on the snow on the way down. Enjoying the slide down. We also realised we hadn’t eaten much so resolved to eat properly at the lake. The stunning views also came in for some photoing! Our eventual lake lunch felt very worth it.. and the. As we descended further and started to get really close we saw mum walking up the path to greet us. Although I was still careful to take every step with my trusty Poles Imogen managed a quick run to give mum a hug before we walked back down to our final victory crossing of the bridge and to the bench and the car for a sleep!
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